Tag Archives: restaurants

My Lima Love Affair

18 Thursday Apr 2013

Posted by in lima, peru, restaurants, travel

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It’s official. I absolutely love Lima, Perú.

Miraflores, Lima, Perú

Views along the Malecón in Lima’s Miraflores neighborhood

I must admit that before arriving in Lima, I did not have high expectations. Because countries like Argentina, Chile and Uruguay enjoy a relatively lower poverty rate than their South American neighbors, I’d assumed that their major cities (Buenos Aires, Santiago, Montevideo) would be the most modern, well-maintained, and safest. Wrong. In fact, I’m going to go ahead and make a potentially controversial statement. And I say this with love and respect in my heart for my previous home, but…Lima blows Buenos Aires out of the water.

El Centro Histórico, Lima, Perú

Lima’s Centro Histórico

I know, I know, every city has good and bad neighborhoods, and 10 days in Lima is not enough to make a proper assessment. Especially since most of our time was spent in the upscale Miraflores neighborhood and the Centro Histórico. But if I compare those neighborhoods with ritzy Recoleta and historic Congreso in Buenos Aires, for example, the contrast is stark. Strolling through Miraflores and El Centro, the streets are clean, buildings are well-maintained, there’s no graffiti in sight, bright green manicured parks are plentiful, the Malecón offers impressive sweeping ocean views, and perhaps most exciting, the sidewalks are not a danger zone full of broken tiles peppered with dog poop. Yes, in Lima, people actually pick up after their dogs! C’mon porteños, everybody’s doin’ it!

But the cuisine is where Lima really outshines its neighbors to the south. Options are seemingly endless and global, representing flavors from all over the world. Japanese, Chinese, Persian, Indian, Colombian, Mexican, and Peruvian restaurants bump up against each other throughout the city. It was delicious agony trying to decide where to eat. These are good problems to have.

Dinner at Edo Sushi Bar (Berlin 601) was so incredible I never paused to take a photo. But if you have the chance, order one of the paquetes and let the sushi chefs decide what to give you. Some of the best, most creative sushi I’ve ever tried.

La Lucha Sanguchería Criolla (multiple locations) does a bustling lunch and dinner business, and it’s worth fighting the crowds for a seat. Sandwiches are stacked with thick slices of mouthwatering wood-roasted pork, turkey, chicken, country ham, or asado de res and topped with options like avocado, hard-boiled eggs, pickled onions and pico de gallo. The fries are made from huayro potatoes, which are typically dry and very absorptive, and result in a thick, crispy and flavorful french fry. They also offer a variety of fresh, exotic juices and batidos like my personal favorite, the lúcuma milkshake.

Stop by Café Café (Mártir Olaya 250) for delicious 2 x 1 drinks like the maracuyá sour, a cocktail made from passionfruit juice and pisco. We couldn’t resist the conchitas a la parmesana, scallops in a half shell drenched in white wine and melted parmesan cheese.

Parmesan Scallops from Cafe Cafe

And you can’t leave Lima without trying anticuchos, a popular street food consisting of chunks of beef heart marinated in garlic, cumin and pepper, skewered, and grilled over a hot fire. Let this serve as proof that it really was the face that turned me off with the guinea pig, mmkay? As you might imagine, anticuchos are super rich and flavorful, a little salty for my taste but still delicious.

A mixed grill of anticuchos, chorizo, and steak.

A mixed grill of anticuchos, chorizo, and steak.

This is by no means an exhaustive list of all the great flavors and restaurants that Lima has to offer. (Check out my previous Lima post for some additional tips). Most regrettably, we lost track of time and flaked on making reservations for any of Gastón Acurio‘s world-renowned restaurants, which I’m pretty sure makes us foodie failures. Given the fly-by-the-seat-of-our-pants nature of this trip, I’ve forgotten the importance of planning ahead for a popular restaurant reservation. Ain’t nobody got time for that.

Luckily, you don’t need to go to Lima to try some kick ass Peruvian cuisine, and I plan to check out Acurio’s famous cooking at La Mar Cebichería (locations in NYC and San Francisco). For my Chicago friends, keep an eye out for T’anta, set to open this summer.

Pisco Sours & Comfort Food on Peru’s Southern Coast

04 Thursday Apr 2013

Posted by in drinks, peru, recipes, travel

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To the beach!

After leaving Arequipa, we made a brief stop in Nazca to check out the mysterious Nazca lines, ancient geoglyphs depicting more than 70 animals and believed to have been created by the Nazca culture between 400 and 650 AD. My fear of heights and tiny propeller planes prevented us from doing a flyover, but we settled for climbing a lookout tower to scope out some of the sand drawings.

Nazca Lines

Because we’re not going to make it to the Galapagos, we decided instead to tour the Islas Ballestas in Paracas, affectionately referred to as the “poor man’s Galapagos”. In addition to the ginormous candelabro sand drawing, we got to see huge colonies of sea lions, adorable Humboldt penguins, and more birds than should be able to fit on one rock.

Islas Ballestas

Then on to Pisco, the home of the Perú’s world-famous national drink, the pisco sour. Pisco is a grape brandy native to Perú and Chile, best complemented by the tartness of lime juice. To make a Peruvian Pisco Sour, mix 3 ounces of pisco, an ounce of simple syrup or a Tablespoon of sugar, the juice from 2 – 3 limes, a few cubes of ice, and an egg white in a blender. Top the frothy mixture with a few dashes of Angostura bitters and enjoy.

Pisco Sours and Cancha

As we learned when sitting down to drinks or a meal, many Peruvian restaurants serve cancha to nibble on, as bars in the USA may serve peanuts. Cancha is toasted corn kernels, served golden brown and crunchy topped with plenty of salt. I couldn’t stop marveling at the size of corn kernels in Perú, and I have yet to find a satisfactory answer for how they get so huge.

Peruvian Corn and Cancha

When we weren’t at the hostel grilling up fresh-caught bonito, a delicious firm-textured fish in the same family as tuna, we were all about the comfort food. Meal highlights from our stay in surf mecca Punta Hermosa include a delicious chaufa de pollo, one of the many delicious Peruvian takes on Chinese fried rice.

Chaufa de Pollo

One more than one occasion we also devoured bistec a lo pobre, one of our favorite South American dishes consisting of a super flavorful thin-pounded steak and a runny fried egg served over crispy fries. As a bonus, this version included some sizzling salchichas.

Bistec a lo Pobre

I think it’s safe to say my commitment to healthy eating on this trip has gone right out the window. Sorry I’m not sorry.

A Whole New World of Flavor in the Peruvian Andes

01 Monday Apr 2013

Posted by in peru, restaurants, travel

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Hola Perú!

Hola Perú! Qué linda que sos!

Holy crap, you guys. It’s a good thing I’m not actually paid to blog on a regular basis, cause I would be fired and/or broker than broke.

More than a month has passed since we crossed into Perú and it’s been sensory overload: so much to see, so much to hear, so much to taste. After a steady diet of un-spiced and under-salted foods in Argentina, it was like an explosion of flavor topped off with lots of pisco sours. In other words: me gustó. MUCHO.

The Peruvian welcoming committee: fields of alpacas.

The Peruvian welcoming committee: fields of alpacas.

After leaving Chile, we drove through the Andes to Puno, a quaint and very traditional town on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. I share this little nugget of information with you not to give you an edge in your next game of Trivial Pursuit (you’re welcome), but so that you can appreciate that going from sea level to 4,000 meters meant a bad case of soroche (altitude sickness). We’re excellent planner-aheaders. It took us a few days to feel human again.

As soon as we could, we visited the famous Uros Islands, floating man-made islands constructed of reeds and inhabited by pre-Incan indigenous groups that maintain a simple, provincial lifestyle. We then began roaming the streets to join in the colorful festivities for the close of the Virgen de la Candeleria festival, watching native dance troupes in traditional garb and spectacular costumes flooding the dusty plazas accompanied by drums and pan pipes, paying homage to Puno’s patron saint.

Puno Collage

When our stomachs had forgiven us for the rapid ascent, we ventured into a small corner restaurant specializing in local delicacies with a menu that was prepared daily (on the rare days they were open) and sold til they ran out. We found that our Spanish skills did nothing for us when it came to deciphering the handful of dishes on the menu, so we asked the waitress for her recommendation and crossed our fingers. We were rewarded handsomely. We waged a silent war over the last bites of the savory adobo arequipeño, a spicy pork stew made with plenty of peppers and chicha de jora, a fermented corn beer. Sadly, the photos I took in the dim restaurant with my sub-par camera make the dish look less than appealing, so stock photo it is until I figure out how to duplicate the recipe on my own.

Photo courtesy of RecetasGratis.net

Photo of Adobo Arequipeño courtesy of RecetasGratis.net

While we’d planned to head to the Sacred Valley, Cusco, and Machu Picchu, a kidnapping warning issued by the U.S. Embassy put a damper on those plans. Driving through remote mountain roads in a foreign car with US plates and a pile of luggage and surfboards on top isn’t exactly helpful if you’d like to keep a low profile. Better safe than…kidnapped? So instead we headed to Arequipa, where we stayed at the delightfully isolated El Lago Estelar hotel and felt sorry for ourselves for a few hours for missing out on one of the wonders of the world. By the time we had dinner, we were over it. The hotel restaurant was stellar. Peruvians love to boast about the breadth of their country’s food “specialties” with good reason. There are so many! Each region has something truly special to offer, and El Lago Estelar did Arequipa proud. To give you an idea of how good, we extended our stay just to keep eating. Not ashamed.

Highlights were the Tacu Tacu, an Afro-Peruvian staple that brings together cooked beans and rice into a soft dough, fried to a crisp and in this case served with a thinly pounded milanesa-style steak, plantains and a fried egg.

Tacu Tacu

And the rocoto relleno, a spicy red rocoto pepper – not to be confused with a bell pepper lest you want to burn your face off – stuffed with savory spiced beef and served with a gratin of thinly sliced potatoes and cheese.

Rocoto Relleno

Again I promise you, with better lighting and a half-decent camera, these would look as mouth-wateringly delicious as they tasted. Trust me?

Because I’m so woefully behind and can appreciate the short attention span of the modern blog reader (with the exception of my die-hard fans, a.k.a. my family – hi y’all, love you!) I’ll be sharing highlights from our leisurely trip up the coast of Peru soon. With much improved photos! I find the strength of that coastal sun is good for more than just wrinkle enhancement.

Eating (and Drinking) Our Way Through Chile

21 Thursday Feb 2013

Posted by in antofagasta, chile, san pedro de atacama, travel

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La Portada in Antofagasta, Chile

La Portada in Antofagasta, Chile

After arriving in Chile, we worked our way up the coast from Bahía Inglesa to Arica, on the border of Peru. Because we spent so much of our time here camping on the beach, I haven’t done a great job of chronicling our comidas. I’ve been too busy wondering if I will ever get all of the sand off of my person and possessions. (Answer: no, never).

But there have been good eats. Lots of good eats. These are the highlights.

Fried Reineta with Ensalada Chilena

In Juan Lopez, a small beach town just north of Antofagasta and its iconic Portada, we crowded into a roadside stall to devour delicious fried fish with sides of rice and ensalada chilena, a basic salad of sliced tomatoes, white onions, and chopped parsley. The fish, reineta, was a mild white variety fried in a light cumin seasoning. We thoroughly approved.

Clockwise from top left: Laguna Miscanti with Miñiques Volcano in the background; Gaspar in the crystal clear water at the Puritama Hot Springs; floating in Laguna Cejar, a lake in the Atacama salt flat with a high salt concentration; Las Tres Marias in the Valley of the Moon

Atacama highlights clockwise from top left: Laguna Miscanti with Miñiques Volcano in the background; Gaspar in the crystal clear water at the Puritama Hot Springs; me bobbing around in Laguna Cejar, a lake in the Atacama salt flat with a salt concentration that rivals the Dead Sea; and finally the eerie moonscape surrounding Las Tres Marias in the Valley of the Moon

Then we took an inland detour to hit San Pedro de Atacama, a pueblo in the Atacama desert that is surrounded by natural wonders including fields full of bubbling geysers, enormous salt flats, hot springs, and a better view of the stars than I ever imagined possible. In between bouts of grilling and sandwich-making, we hit the pedestrian street Calle Caracoles for dinner and had an excellent goat cheese and tomato appetizer served simmering in olive oil with garlic, onions and thyme from Casa de Piedra.

Goat Cheese & Tomato

Because I’m a big fat fan of big fat sandwiches, I had to try one of the most common sammies being hawked by the corner shops and street vendors: the churrasco completo, loaded with thinly sliced beef, cheese, tomato, mayo, avocado, and chucrut (basically sauerkraut). It’s greasy, it’s messy, it’s everything I demand from a big fat sandwich. Well done, Chilenos!

Chilean Churrasco Sandwich

I definitely embrace the Chilean love of avocado. In addition to being eaten by the slice, puré de palta (pureed avocado) is a go-to condiment that lines the sandwich counters in pump canisters alongside ketchup and mayo, gracing hot dogs, hamburgers and fries alike. I’m pretty sure that when I reflect on Chilean cuisine in the future, the two foodstuffs that will forever come to mind are avocado and mayonnaise. On everything.

And of course, no meal would be complete without trying some new vinos. We discovered carménère, a member of the cabernet family that used to be produced exclusively in Bordeaux, France but now Chile boasts the world’s largest area planted with the variety. It’s a medium-bodied, deep crimson wine often used for blending, but in its pure form has a cherry-like, fruity flavor with spicy undertones that we found really appealing. Salud!

Image from Ciudad Restaurant

Casillero del Diablo carménere image from Ciudad Restaurant

Today we’re heading into Peru, where I’m looking forward to drowning in pisco and ceviche and hopefully avoiding any more bouts of altitude sickness. As I learned in San Pedro de Atacama, 4,500 meters above sea level can make a tummy feel no bueno. Wish me luck!

REAL Sushi in San Telmo

17 Thursday Jan 2013

Posted by in argentina, buenos aires, restaurants, travel

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Shokudo

“Cream cheese.” “Queso crema.” “Philadelphia.” Whatever you call it, I’m baffled as to why it seems to be the key ingredient in Argentine sushi. Don’t get me wrong, I love me some cream cheese, and I can enjoy the occasional salmon and cream cheese stuffed sushi roll. But in most sushi restaurants here, globs of it appear everywhere, and it’s just…no.

Thank goodness for Shokudo and Comedor Nikkai, two restaurants owned by Argentina’s Japanese Association that just so happen to be within blocks of our apartment. This sushi’s the real deal. The thick slices of rich, butter-smooth salmon sashimi practically melt in your mouth. And while a dab of cream cheese can be spotted from time to time, they actually complement the salmon rather than overpower it. I can honestly say the sashimi and nigiri are the best I’ve ever had, and considering this town’s reputation for awful sushi, that was an unexpected revelation.

Shokudo Sushi

Both restaurants have basically the same menu. Our go-to order is the Osaka de Salmón, a mix of 30 pieces of salmon sashimi, nigiri, and rolls that are left up to the sushi chefs imagination. It comes with a small entrada, a bowl of miso soup, and a cup of green tea at the end of the meal. The restaurants are both dim and not photo-friendly, so unfortunately the pics don’t do the food justice.

Both locations are a bit tucked away. Shokudo is on a second floor, overlooking Defensa, while Comedor Nikkai is inside the Japanese Association building on Independencia and doesn’t even have a sign. But if you hear the loud (and kinda scary) sounds of people practicing martial arts, you’re in the right place.

SAN TELMO SHOKUDO – Defensa 910 in San Telmo

COMEDOR NIKKAI – Independencia 732 in San Telmo

Dining Out in Buenos Aires: Useful Words & Phrases

07 Monday Jan 2013

Posted by in argentina, buenos aires, etiquette, restaurants, tips & how to's, travel

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Menus at Hierbabuena

For longer than I care to admit, I had a debilitating fear of ordering for myself at restaurants in Buenos Aires. My self-consciousness about my Spanish was overwhelming, prompting me to overthink every potential interaction and required response to the point that by the time the server arrived at the table I was completely tongue-tied.

Thankfully, those days are behind me, but the memory of my self-consciousness prompted me to put together this list of helpful words and phrases for beginners, so you can dine out in Buenos Aires with confidence.

First, some background to prepare you for the experience.

  • Many restaurants close down in the late afternoon. They may be open for lunch from noon until 4pm, then re-open at 8pm for dinner. Yes, that’s right my North American friends, be prepared to eat later than you’re used to.
  • Tipping 10% is customary. Many restaurants will charge a “cubierto” service charge – this is not the tip! It’s basically the cost of getting a table at their restaurant, or maybe the basket of bread? I’ve never really been clear on that.
  • Service is generally slow, if not otherwise atrocious. Don’t take it personally, it’s not you. Just sit back, relax, and try to enjoy the wait for your menu, your drinks, your food, and the bill. Make sure you’ve got plenty of time.
  • Many restaurants and cafés do not accept credit cards.

If all you can remember is “Vino, por favor!” you’re good to go. But just in case, here are some other words and phrases that may come in handy. This is by no means exhaustive, but covers the basics to get food in your belly. And keep in mind that some of the terms may be specific to Argentina or Rioplatense Spanish.

USEFUL PHRASES FOR DINING OUT IN BUENOS AIRES

“Excuse me…” = “Perdón…”

“A table for two, please.” = “Una mesa para dos personas, por favor.”

“What do you recommend?” = “Qué aconsejás?”

“I’d like to order ____.” = “Te pido ___ por favor.” Literal translation is “I ask you for ____ please”, which I know sounds super awkward to us Yanks, but it is what it is.

“Can I order food to go?” = “Puedo pedir para llevar?”

“Can I take the leftovers?” = “Puedo llevar las sobras?” But don’t be surprised if they look at you like you’re crazy or don’t have anything to package it in. This is not a common practice.

“The bill, please.” = “La cuenta, por favor.”

“Are credit cards accepted?” = “Se aceptan tarjetas de crédito?”

Have no fear! Order with confidence.

USEFUL VOCABULARY WORDS FOR DINING OUT IN BUENOS AIRES

appetizers: entradas

beer: una cerveza, un chopp (draft beer), un porrón (bottled beer), un litro (large liter bottle of beer to share…or not, no judgement)

the bill: la cuenta

chicken: pollo, suprema (chicken breast)

coffee: café, café con leche (coffee with milk)

dessert: postre

entrée: plato principal

fish: pescado; the most common are merluza (hake), lenguado (sole), and salmón rosado or blanco (pink or white salmon)

fork: tenedor

ham: jamón, jamón cocido (cooked, sliced ham), jamón crudo (dry-cured ham)

ice: hielo

juice: jugo

knife: cuchillo

menu: la carta

ground pepper: pimienta negra molida

napkin: servilleta

pork: cerdo, bondiola (pork shoulder), chorizo (pork sausage)

potatoes: papas, papas fritas (fries) puré de papas (mashed potatoes)

rice: arroz

salad: ensalada

salt: sal

seafood: mariscos

server: mozo/a

silverware/cutlery: cubiertos

soda: gaseosa

soup: sopa

spoon: cuchara

steak / meat: carne (check out this post from Wander Argentina for a list of all the various cuts); to request meat cooked rare: vuelta y vuelta, medium rare: jugoso, medium: al punto, well done: bien cocido. Rest assured, it will arrive at the table more well done than you’d wanted.

sugar: azúcar

tea: té

vegetarian: vegetariano

water: agua con gas (sparkling water), agua sin gas (still bottled water)

wine: vino, vino tinto (red wine), vino blanco (white wine), una copa de vino (a glass of wine), una botella de vino (a bottle of wine)

 

Parillada Para Dos, Por Favor

28 Friday Dec 2012

Posted by in argentina, buenos aires, restaurants, travel

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Buenos Aires would be a tough town for a vegetarian.

I’ve encountered meat treats that I never knew existed, and many that I try not to think about too hard as I’m savoring (hello, morcilla). There’s no shortage of protein options, and for better or worse no…part, shall we say?…goes to waste.

One of my favorite meals, and a must for anyone traveling here, is ordering some version of parillada para dos: literally, grill for two (or four, or six, etc). A small charcoal grill is brought to your table sizzling with mouth-watering smells and piled with succulent cuts of beef, pork, chicken, chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), riñon (kidneys) and sweetbreads.

My favorite spot in the Capital to spend an afternoon digging into a mountain of carne is in Recoleta, at any of the parrillas on Junín along the walls of El Cementerio de la Recoleta. An odd preference, perhaps, but I had my first parrillada experience at Clark’s so I’ve got a soft spot for it. I also always look forward to hitting Tata Juancho along Ruta 11 between Mar del Plata and Chapadmalal. During weekend trips to the beach we religiously stop here to enjoy some cold beers, sizzling grilled meat, and perfectly crisped fries outside at one of their picnic tables, with Judah successfully scouring the premises for discarded scraps and being treated to her own chunks of meat fresh off the grill from the dog-loving grillmasters.

While the cuts of meat can vary in quality and appeal, for me, the beauty of the parrillada is the experience. Give it a try and let me know what you think.

TATA JUANCHO – Ruta 11 km 7,5 south of Mar del Plata

CLARK’S – Junín 1777 in Recoleta

Puerta Cerrada: The Hidden Kitchen

20 Tuesday Nov 2012

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Puerta cerradas, or closed-door restaurants, have been around the Buenos Aires restaurant scene for years now. I’m pretty sure every Buenos Aires ex-pat or food-related blogger’s written about the phenomenon by now, but for my readers back in the homeland (hi Mom!) a quick overview. The puerta cerrada is an “unofficial” restaurant, typically in a chef’s home or other private space. While each one is different, you can always count on enjoying a carefully planned multi-course menu in an intimate setting. It feels exclusive, like you’re at some sort of private supper club or have been invited to the chef’s home for a dinner party.

Lately, a couple of my favorite local food bloggers have opened their own closed-door restaurants. And yes, I’m overflowing with a combination of admiration and (well-meaning) envy! Living the dream, chicas. I was too busy enjoying great conversation at NOLA’s communal table to be snapping pics of each course when I went, but I highly recommend it. Check out the reviews on TripAdvisor, where it’s sitting pretty at numero uno.

Of course there’s nothing wrong with a little friendly competition, as The Hidden Kitchen’s now on the scene as well! And at our semi-private table I had no camera shame. This latest puerta cerrada is the work of Frances Ren, an ex-pat by way of Bangkok/San Francisco/Beijing who also pens The Lost Asian and posts some of the drooling-est food photos in town. The seating is such that it could be communal if you want, or if you’re not feeling like telling the story of how you came to live in Buenos Aires for the umpteenth time, you can comfortably focus your attention solely on your dining companions without feeling rude. I liked having the option. While I’ve had some great communal dining experiences, I’ve also had some where a few hours felt like an eternity of tooth-pulling.

Adding to the appeal of The Hidden Kitchen: 1.) Hot-and-spicy-ness, that much-bemoaned missing ingredient in local cuisine. 2.) It’s BYO-freaking-B!!!! I have never understood how this concept has not invaded every corner of the culinary earth. 3.) Excellent eclectic music selection. Red Hot Chili Peppers, Alice in Chains, Jack Johnson, Counting Crows, and classic pop and hip-hop tunes. You get the picture.

And now, for the food:

The welcome cocktail was absolutely divine. I heard something about gin and plums and didn’t really register the rest because I was already pouring it down my throat.

Napa cabbage, cilantro, peanuts and sesame sauce with flatbread

I failed to jot down the details, but all you really need to know is turnip cakes and hot sauce. And duck in those cabbage rolls!

Scallion pancakes.

A vegetable broth soup with sesame oil and a cabbage wrapped shrimp and pork dumpling.

Taiwanese braised short ribs cooked in Chinese herbs with handmade noodles, peas and carrots.

Crisp roasted duck with potatoes, grilled peach and pistachios.

My personal favorite, the crispy veggie spring roll with their signature Sweet Lady sauce.

And a delicious Thanksgiving previa: pumpkin tart with cinnamon ice cream

THE HIDDEN KITCHEN – Palermo, exact address provided with reservation

Check out the reviews on TripAdvisor. 

Crab Dip or Bust

08 Thursday Nov 2012

Posted by in north carolina, restaurants, travel

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One of my absolute favorite restaurants in Wilmington is Elijah’s. I don’t recall when my sister first introduced me to the place, but it quickly became a must-do during every visit. As I browsed the menu during this latest trip I realized I’ve sampled quite a large portion of it over the years. This time I was mostly focused on the (previously unappreciated) prospect of an abundance of fresh seafood at my fingertips. For a coastal city, Buenos Aires is alarmingly lacking in that department. So I intended to make the most of it in NC.

The restaurant is in a quaint section of Wilmington, right on the Cape Fear River with gorgeous sunset views. A great setting for basking in beautiful weather and enjoying some cocktails. I highly recommend the Bloody Caesar. The French Martini? Ehhh, not so much.

The main reason I always insist on Elijah’s is the crab dip. We simply must get it, every time. In fact, I wouldn’t mind getting one (or two?) just for myself, and certain people have been known to order it as their meal. It’s creamy and crabby and cheesy, with the perfect kick of horseradish.  And it’s the thick, buttery, lightly toasted garlic bread that really takes it to the next level. Me muero.

Being an oyster bar, Elijah’s offers a variety of oyster preparations, and we went simple: a dozen, steamed. My sister introduced me to oysters on crackers with hot sauce, a pretty delicious combination that for me, still doesn’t beat dousing the suckers in melted butter. Soy una gorda.

After enjoying a few of those absolutely delicious Bloody Caesars, it was time for more seafood. I ordered the crab cakes, one pan-fried with corn bread crumbs and “low country seasonings” (whatever THAT means…southern-speak for delicious?), and one deep-fried with Old Bay. I preferred the pan-fried version, disproving my theory that deep-frying makes everything more delicious. The sides were pretty bland, but at least they made me feel better about my rabid indulgence in all things fried.

Sissie got the special, mahi-mahi in a super rich lobster cream sauce over angel hair pasta with shaved parmesan. Oh man, was it goooooood! Too bad she never did learn how to share.

In addition to full bellies, we also left with a ton of leftovers to indulge in later.

I’m sure there are a ton of places in Wilmington that have excellent seafood, but there is something about Elijah’s that’s just…special. Maybe it’s the chill riverside location, or the artifacts on display from the building’s days as a maritime museum, or the memories I’ve made there with some of my faves. Regardless, two slightly greasy thumbs up.

ELIJAH’S – 2 Ann Street in Wilmington, North Carolina

Read the reviews on TripAdvisor.

The Breakfast Buffet: A Great American Pastime

22 Monday Oct 2012

Posted by in north carolina, restaurants, travel

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I’ve been in a food coma for the past few days, and I am not ashamed.

One of the things I’ve been looking forward to the most for my USA East Coast tour – aside from visiting family and friends, of course – is all the glorious foooooood! Starting in North Carolina, because if you haven’t eaten in the South, you just haven’t lived! (And your heart is probably much healthier for it, but…whatever).

Immediately upon arrival, we hit up the Lighthouse Beer Festival with its glorious array of craft brews. So the following morning was the perfect occasion to visit a breakfast buffet. And where better than the legendary Golden Corral.

The breakfast buffet is all about strategy. First, I always survey my options so I know what is available, can prioritize and allot plate space accordingly. Skip this step at your own risk! Around every corner is another tray of deliciousness that you are going to wish you had more room for.

My personal favorite this time around was the Smokey Cheesy Potatoes because holy hell, there are just no words. Sliced red potatoes in a gooey smokey creamy cheese sauce with peppers and onions. Then there was the sausage egg and cheese casserole, the bacon, the corned beef hash, the cheese grits, the hash browns….and that was just on Plate #1.

For Round 2, realizing I had limited vacancy in my belly I zeroed in on the final non-negotiable: creamed chipped beef over a biscuit. On an impulse, I added an apple fritter that I didn’t expect much from. But WOW, that was the perfect sweet ending. It was like a funnel cake with chunks of sweet cinnamon apples. (Wikipedia link added for the benefit of my non-North American readers – ¡qué lástima si no lo has probado!).

Lest you assume I’m a total glutton, below I present you with the offerings in which I did NOT indulge. How it cannot be considered criminal to include a dessert buffet as part of a breakfast buffet is really not for me to question. And what is pictured is actually less than half of what was available. It took a lot of willpower to skip the chocolate cake, carrot cake, chocolate cream pie, strawberry pie AND the chocolate fountain. But, y’know, we all make sacrifices.

GOLDEN CORRAL – with locations all over the USA

God Bless America.