Tag Archives: lima

My Lima Love Affair

18 Thursday Apr 2013

Posted by in lima, peru, restaurants, travel

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It’s official. I absolutely love Lima, Perú.

Miraflores, Lima, Perú

Views along the Malecón in Lima’s Miraflores neighborhood

I must admit that before arriving in Lima, I did not have high expectations. Because countries like Argentina, Chile and Uruguay enjoy a relatively lower poverty rate than their South American neighbors, I’d assumed that their major cities (Buenos Aires, Santiago, Montevideo) would be the most modern, well-maintained, and safest. Wrong. In fact, I’m going to go ahead and make a potentially controversial statement. And I say this with love and respect in my heart for my previous home, but…Lima blows Buenos Aires out of the water.

El Centro Histórico, Lima, Perú

Lima’s Centro Histórico

I know, I know, every city has good and bad neighborhoods, and 10 days in Lima is not enough to make a proper assessment. Especially since most of our time was spent in the upscale Miraflores neighborhood and the Centro Histórico. But if I compare those neighborhoods with ritzy Recoleta and historic Congreso in Buenos Aires, for example, the contrast is stark. Strolling through Miraflores and El Centro, the streets are clean, buildings are well-maintained, there’s no graffiti in sight, bright green manicured parks are plentiful, the Malecón offers impressive sweeping ocean views, and perhaps most exciting, the sidewalks are not a danger zone full of broken tiles peppered with dog poop. Yes, in Lima, people actually pick up after their dogs! C’mon porteños, everybody’s doin’ it!

But the cuisine is where Lima really outshines its neighbors to the south. Options are seemingly endless and global, representing flavors from all over the world. Japanese, Chinese, Persian, Indian, Colombian, Mexican, and Peruvian restaurants bump up against each other throughout the city. It was delicious agony trying to decide where to eat. These are good problems to have.

Dinner at Edo Sushi Bar (Berlin 601) was so incredible I never paused to take a photo. But if you have the chance, order one of the paquetes and let the sushi chefs decide what to give you. Some of the best, most creative sushi I’ve ever tried.

La Lucha Sanguchería Criolla (multiple locations) does a bustling lunch and dinner business, and it’s worth fighting the crowds for a seat. Sandwiches are stacked with thick slices of mouthwatering wood-roasted pork, turkey, chicken, country ham, or asado de res and topped with options like avocado, hard-boiled eggs, pickled onions and pico de gallo. The fries are made from huayro potatoes, which are typically dry and very absorptive, and result in a thick, crispy and flavorful french fry. They also offer a variety of fresh, exotic juices and batidos like my personal favorite, the lúcuma milkshake.

Stop by Café Café (Mártir Olaya 250) for delicious 2 x 1 drinks like the maracuyá sour, a cocktail made from passionfruit juice and pisco. We couldn’t resist the conchitas a la parmesana, scallops in a half shell drenched in white wine and melted parmesan cheese.

Parmesan Scallops from Cafe Cafe

And you can’t leave Lima without trying anticuchos, a popular street food consisting of chunks of beef heart marinated in garlic, cumin and pepper, skewered, and grilled over a hot fire. Let this serve as proof that it really was the face that turned me off with the guinea pig, mmkay? As you might imagine, anticuchos are super rich and flavorful, a little salty for my taste but still delicious.

A mixed grill of anticuchos, chorizo, and steak.

A mixed grill of anticuchos, chorizo, and steak.

This is by no means an exhaustive list of all the great flavors and restaurants that Lima has to offer. (Check out my previous Lima post for some additional tips). Most regrettably, we lost track of time and flaked on making reservations for any of Gastón Acurio‘s world-renowned restaurants, which I’m pretty sure makes us foodie failures. Given the fly-by-the-seat-of-our-pants nature of this trip, I’ve forgotten the importance of planning ahead for a popular restaurant reservation. Ain’t nobody got time for that.

Luckily, you don’t need to go to Lima to try some kick ass Peruvian cuisine, and I plan to check out Acurio’s famous cooking at La Mar Cebichería (locations in NYC and San Francisco). For my Chicago friends, keep an eye out for T’anta, set to open this summer.

Guinea Pig, a Peruvian Delicacy

15 Monday Apr 2013

Posted by in food trends, lima, peru, travel

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Cuy - Peruvian Guinea Pig

I don’t think I’m alone when I say that eating a rodent by choice has never been high up on my bucket list. But when in Rome (or Perú)…

Guinea pig, or cuy (pronounced koo-ee), is a delicacy throughout the central Andes that is often the main course for holidays, birthdays, and other special occasions. Of course, a special occasion is not a requirement. In fact, it’s estimated that Peruvians consume about 65 million guinea pigs each year. The cuy is such a central figure in the Peruvian diet and culture that many towns hold an annual festival simply to exalt the furry rodents, complete with cuy costume contests. And during our visit to the San Francisco Monastery and Catacombs in Lima, we saw a gigantic recreation of The Last Supper in which Jesus and his disciples were dining on guinea pig.

Depending on the region, cuy may be served roasted, broiled, in stews, or skinned and fried to a crisp. I’d been eager to give the strange meat a try, til I laid my eyes on the presentation. Restaurants throughout the country advertise the erstwhile family pets splayed out on top of a salad and some fries, with their mouths agape in what I can only imagine is a final scream of terror. (Seriously, do a Google image search for “cuy Perú” or just see below).  I’m not generally squeamish about faces on my food. But something about roasted guinea pig face pushed my limits to the brink.

Cuy - Guinea Pig

We waited until two of our friends joined us in Lima before taking the leap of ordering one. We figured that way, the pressure to finish regardless of the mental anguish could be spread between four of us rather than two. This was a wise strategy. I was able to take a couple bites before that roasted scream got the best of me. And perhaps my opinion is not objective as a result, but I didn’t really care for it. The skin was nice and crispy, which I generally love. But it was greasy, and the meat was gamey and stringy. Though some compare it to rabbit, I have to disagree. But then again, I was under duress.

Cutting into Cuy

Lest you think guinea pig dinners are limited to South America, a recent NPR article “From Pets to Plates: Why More People Are Eating Guinea Pig” details how the humble cuy is gaining popularity in the USA. Thanks to the influence of South American restaurants and concerns about the environment, many activists are pushing guinea pig as “a low-impact meat alternative to carbon-costly beef” that’s high in protein and low in fat. While the article makes some excellent points in that regard, I also know that eating crickets and other insects is highly nutritious and good for the environment. But do I see myself embracing the notion of sitting down to a dinner of bugs? Not so much.

Would you ever give cuy a try? If you have, I’d love to know if my assessment was skewed by my squeamishness.

Learning to Cook Andean Delicacies at Sky Kitchen

10 Wednesday Apr 2013

Posted by in lima, peru, travel

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Sky Kitchen in Lima, Peru

After falling in love with the flavors in Perú, I knew the only way my taste buds would forgive my return to the USA would be the promise home-cooked recreations. So I signed up for the Andean Delicacies cooking class at Sky Kitchen in Lima (and a gym membership to counteract my love of Peruvian food).

Sky Kitchen cooking classes are held in a modern penthouse space overlooking Lima’s gorgeous Miraflores neighborhood. They’re led by Peruvian native Chef Yurac, who began cooking at eight years old when his mother punished him for some form of misbehavior he claims not to remember by depriving him of the family meal she’d prepared. He decided he didn’t need her cooking anyhow, he could do better himself. This launched a lifelong passion which he now shares with visitors to Lima.

On the left is huacatay, a Peruvian black mint. On the right, ahí panca, a spicy Peruvian pepper.

On the left is huacatay, a Peruvian black mint. On the right, ahí panca, a spicy Peruvian pepper.

Over the course of a leisurely afternoon, we learned about a variety of native Peruvian fruits, vegetables and grains, the history of many Peruvian dishes, and the techniques used in their preparation. We chopped, sliced, stirred and fried our way to an incredible meal.

The first course we prepared was ocopa, a native potato drenched in a sauce made from a fascinating mix of yellow pepper, cheese, onion, garlic, huacatay leaves (black mint), toasted peanuts and vanilla crackers. Yep, vanilla crackers. Who knew? I’d seen this served at restaurants and thought it didn’t look all that appealing, but I was surprised to find it was one of my favorite dishes.

Ocopa

Next up was the chupe, a savory soup featuring prawns and fried fish, along with corn, peas, carrots, pumpkin, more huacatay, and a healthy dose of cheese and rice.

Chupe

The main course was seco de alpaca a la norteña, a mixture of cilantro, onions, garlic, ají panca (a spicy Peruvian pepper), white wine, and chicha do jora (Peruvian maize beer). The sauce and meat slowly simmer for hours resulting in a flavorful alpaca that’s so tender it falls apart. This was my first time trying alpaca, and I am a fan. It’s super lean, but tender and versatile. The dish was served with asparagus and a guiso de quinoa featuring my favorite grain doused in cheese, milk, garlic and yellow pepper. Quinoa’s only recently become popular in the USA, but it’s been a protein-rich staple in countries like Perú, Ecuador, Bolivia and Colombia for thousands of years.

Lean cuts of alpaca meat.

Nice and lean cuts of alpaca.

Seco de Alpaca

And to top it all off, perhaps my favorite of the day, was a delicious mousse made with lúcuma fruit. Lúcuma looks something like an avocado when you cut into it, except bright yellow, with a slightly drier texture similar to that of a hard-boiled egg yolk. The flavor is impossible to describe, like nothing I’ve tasted before, but it’s addicting. Lucky for me it’s served throughout Perú in milkshakes and ice cream. (Yeah, that gym membership was a must). We topped the mousse with a maracuyá (passion fruit) reduction. I can’t wait to try my hand at making mousse back home!

Lúcuma Mousse

Sky Kitchen offers classes Mondays through Saturdays for lunch or dinner, and classes are available in English, Spanish and German. Come hungry, because it’s a TON of food! For more information or to book a class, visit the Sky Kitchen website.