Pintxos at Sagardi in San Telmo

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Finally! We passed this restaurant so often on our evening dog walk that the route was officially dubbed The Sagardi Walk. (“Let’s grab the pup and go on The Sagardi Walk!”). We finally decided it was time to stop talking about it, and be about it.

Pintxos at SagardiSagardi is a Spanish restaurant, and the focus is pintxos. These tapas-style snacks offer a seemingly endless variety of options, all on top of small slices of bread and held together by a toothpick; hence the name that literally translates to “thorn” or “spike”. They’re especially popular in the Basque country of Spain.

Sagardi has a dining room for formal, sit-down dinners with a menu full of delicious-sounding entrees, but there’s really no need to go beyond the bar area where the pintxos are lined up along the counters.

bar at Sagardi

At Sagardi, you can choose to sit along the actual bar where the pinxtos are showcased or at a large communal table that offers enough room for different dining parties to be separated and comfortable. You basically serve yourself, grabbing a plate and piling it high with options ranging from thick slices of smoked salmon to wedges of tortilla española. I recommend taking it slow. Hang out for a while. As the evening progresses, piping hot pinxto varieties will be passed around the restaurant by the waitstaff, and you’ll be sorry if you filled up too quickly. Options like grilled squid and shrimp, mini-burgers with caramelized onions, and filet mignon with grilled mushrooms come out of the kitchen in a steady, tempting stream.

pintxos at Sagardi

Pintxos are paid for individually at $12 pesos a pop, and your bill is determined by the number of toothpicks you’ve accumulated. Choose wisely!

SAGARDI – Humberto Primo 319 in San Telmo

Check out reviews on TripAdvisor.

Giving Thanks for Pumpkin Rolls

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Gaspar and I once again hosted a Thanksgiving feast to share the best of our culture with our friends here in Buenos Aires. This time around, planning was a breeze. Amazing what a difference language skills and a bit of experience can make. Having nailed the acrobatics involved in cooking for 15 people with one tiny stove last year, I had all the “make-ahead” recipes lined up. And after frantically scouring the city last year for Thanksgiving staples like pumpkin, turkey and pecans that don’t seem to be embraced in Argentine cuisine, I knew where to find what I needed. A quick rundown for any newcomers: small frozen turkeys (pavitos) can be found at Jumbo, pecans (nueces – yes, I know that just translates to “nuts” but I don’t make the rules) at Mercado de San Telmo or Barrio Chino, sweet potatoes (batatas) are everywhere, the best brown sugar substitute is azucar negra, and things like cranberries, marshmallows and canned pumpkin do not exist here so “import” them if you can.

I’d had big plans for featuring all the various dishes and recipes I used, but as I should have known, by the time everything was ready and guests were arriving, the last thing on my mind was taking photos. But trust me, if you’re ever looking for a super tasty mashed potato recipe that can be made ahead, this is the one. And this sweet potato casserole got non-stop rave reviews from everyone. I use evaporated milk instead of regular, double the vanilla, and triple the amount of the pecan topping. I love me some crispy pecan topping, what can I say?

At least I got some good pics of the pumpkin roll. I use the recipe from Libby’s without much modification. Pumpkin rolls can take some practice, and are rarely “perfect” but the taste is what counts, right? My advice would be: 1.)  do not overmix when adding the flour. 2.) Make sure you spread the batter as evenly as possible in the pan. 3.) Thoroughly cover your tea towel with powdered sugar (there’s no such thing as too much, really) and 4.) When spreading the cream cheese filling onto the cake, go heaviest on the end that will be the center of the roll and make sure you’re not skimping on the edges.

If you live in Buenos Aires, good news! Pumpkin rolls are now available for special order. Just contact me here.

LIBBY’S PUMPKIN ROLL

For the cake:

  • 1/2 cup powdered sugar (to sprinkle on towel)
  • 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 3 large eggs
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 2/3 cup LIBBY’S® 100% Pure Pumpkin

For the filling:

  • 1 pkg. (8 oz.) cream cheese, at room temperature
  • 1 cup powdered sugar
  • 6 tablespoons butter, softened
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • Powdered sugar (for decoration)

Preheat oven to 375° F. Grease 15 x 10-inch jelly-roll pan; line with wax paper. Grease and flour paper. Sprinkle a thin, cotton kitchen towel with powdered sugar.

Combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, cloves and salt in small bowl. Beat eggs and granulated sugar in large mixer bowl until thick. Beat in pumpkin. Stir in flour mixture. Spread evenly into prepared pan.

Bake for 13 to 15 minutes or until top of cake springs back when touched. (If using a dark-colored pan, begin checking for doneness at 11 minutes.) Immediately loosen and turn cake onto prepared towel. Carefully peel off paper. Roll up cake and towel together, starting with narrow end. Cool on wire rack.

For filling, beat cream cheese, 1 cup powdered sugar, butter and vanilla extract in small mixer bowl until smooth. Carefully unroll cake. Spread cream cheese mixture over cake. Reroll cake. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least one hour. You can also freeze the pumpkin roll if making in advance. Sprinkle with powdered sugar before serving.

Photo credit for this one goes to one of my favorite dinner guests, Marina Coser

Puerta Cerrada: The Hidden Kitchen

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Puerta cerradas, or closed-door restaurants, have been around the Buenos Aires restaurant scene for years now. I’m pretty sure every Buenos Aires ex-pat or food-related blogger’s written about the phenomenon by now, but for my readers back in the homeland (hi Mom!) a quick overview. The puerta cerrada is an “unofficial” restaurant, typically in a chef’s home or other private space. While each one is different, you can always count on enjoying a carefully planned multi-course menu in an intimate setting. It feels exclusive, like you’re at some sort of private supper club or have been invited to the chef’s home for a dinner party.

Lately, a couple of my favorite local food bloggers have opened their own closed-door restaurants. And yes, I’m overflowing with a combination of admiration and (well-meaning) envy! Living the dream, chicas. I was too busy enjoying great conversation at NOLA’s communal table to be snapping pics of each course when I went, but I highly recommend it. Check out the reviews on TripAdvisor, where it’s sitting pretty at numero uno.

Of course there’s nothing wrong with a little friendly competition, as The Hidden Kitchen’s now on the scene as well! And at our semi-private table I had no camera shame. This latest puerta cerrada is the work of Frances Ren, an ex-pat by way of Bangkok/San Francisco/Beijing who also pens The Lost Asian and posts some of the drooling-est food photos in town. The seating is such that it could be communal if you want, or if you’re not feeling like telling the story of how you came to live in Buenos Aires for the umpteenth time, you can comfortably focus your attention solely on your dining companions without feeling rude. I liked having the option. While I’ve had some great communal dining experiences, I’ve also had some where a few hours felt like an eternity of tooth-pulling.

Adding to the appeal of The Hidden Kitchen: 1.) Hot-and-spicy-ness, that much-bemoaned missing ingredient in local cuisine. 2.) It’s BYO-freaking-B!!!! I have never understood how this concept has not invaded every corner of the culinary earth. 3.) Excellent eclectic music selection. Red Hot Chili Peppers, Alice in Chains, Jack Johnson, Counting Crows, and classic pop and hip-hop tunes. You get the picture.

And now, for the food:

The welcome cocktail was absolutely divine. I heard something about gin and plums and didn’t really register the rest because I was already pouring it down my throat.

Napa cabbage, cilantro, peanuts and sesame sauce with flatbread

I failed to jot down the details, but all you really need to know is turnip cakes and hot sauce. And duck in those cabbage rolls!

Scallion pancakes.

A vegetable broth soup with sesame oil and a cabbage wrapped shrimp and pork dumpling.

Taiwanese braised short ribs cooked in Chinese herbs with handmade noodles, peas and carrots.

Crisp roasted duck with potatoes, grilled peach and pistachios.

My personal favorite, the crispy veggie spring roll with their signature Sweet Lady sauce.

And a delicious Thanksgiving previa: pumpkin tart with cinnamon ice cream

THE HIDDEN KITCHEN – Palermo, exact address provided with reservation

Check out the reviews on TripAdvisor. 

Cheeseburger Pie a.k.a. Chewed Up Cheeseburger

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As we prepared to hunker down in New Jersey in anticipation of Hurricane Sandy, we made a quick Target run for all the necessities before the stores closed indefinitely. I’m pretty sure our idea of “necessities” didn’t really jive with everyone else at Target, but hey, we didn’t know if this would be our last chance to stock up before heading back to Argentina! As we were filling our cart with things like basic tees, Mr. Clean Magic Erasers, and beauty products, it occurred to us that getting some food might be a good idea as well. What would make good hurricane comfort food? At Gaspar’s request, Chewed Up Cheeseburger it was.

The first time I made this I was in grade school. The recipe, called Quick Cheeseburger Pie, was from a cookbook that we’d gotten from Gold Medal Flour that was geared towards kids and had a different recipe for each letter of the alphabet. I’d already successfully tried my hand at a few other recipes in that little book, and my cousins were coming over for dinner so I wanted to pick a winner. I did, although it was my first lesson in portion planning as it wasn’t nearly enough to feed the crowd. Still, it went over like gangbusters and has been a go-to ever since, as many of our friends can attest. It was Gaspar who dubbed it Chewed Up Cheeseburger, which I initially found horrifying but have come to embrace. Perhaps it doesn’t sound all that appetizing, but think about all the delicious flavors of a cheeseburger in a flaky pie crust, and you may change your mind.

Like all casseroles, the photos may not be all that pretty, but just trust me.

CHEWED UP CHEESEBURGER

For pastry:

1 1/3 cup flour

1/2 tsp. salt

1/2 cup shortening

4 T. cold water

For filling:

1 pound lean ground beef

1 small onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 tsp. salt

1/4 cup flour

1/3 cup dill pickle juice

1/3 cup milk

1/2 cup chopped dill pickles

2 cups shredded cheddar cheese

Preheat oven to 425° F. For the pastry crust, in a medium bowl, mix 1 1/3 cups flour and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cut in shortening until mixture resembles tiny peas. Add cold water 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring with a fork after each addition. Mix lightly, just until pastry almost cleans sides of bowl. Press into bottom and sides of an 8 inch pie pan. Bake in preheated oven for 15 minutes.

To make the filling, crumble ground beef into a large skillet and saute over medium heat for 1 minute. Add onion and garlic. Continue to saute until onion is browned, about 10 minutes. Drain grease from mixture. Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 cup flour. Stir in pickle liquid, milk, pickles, and 1 cup shredded cheese. Spoon mixture into pastry shell. Bake in preheated oven for 15 minutes. Sprinkle top with remaining 1 cup cheese and bake an additional 5 minutes, until pastry is golden brown and cheese is bubbly.

The Strip District in Pittsburgh, PA

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During my whirlwind four-state trip to the USA, I spent some time at the old homestead outside of Pittsburgh in western PA. I always look forward to good eats when I come home. Both of my parents know their way around the kitchen and there are a lot of local specialties. While the fam likes to tease me about getting all fancy in my cooking ways, fans of Tully Chicken all over the world can attest that I still embrace the country cooking, I’ve just expanded my repertoire. Still, it’s true that some of the ingredients in recipes I’ve posted aren’t necessarily available at your local supermarket. So I’ve heard from friends and family back home that they go to The Strip to find them. Which made me realize, it’s been WAY too long since I’ve been to The Strip. So long, in fact, that I didn’t remember it, although my mother assures me I’ve been there. So I had to make some new memories.

The fam (minus one) on Smallman Street in the Strip District

The Strip District – or The Strip, as it’s commonly known – is not, as my husband assumed, an area full of gentlemen’s clubs. Sheesh. It’s a half square mile strip bordering the Allegheny River full of restaurants, bars, antiques shops, craft stores, old factories and warehouses converted to lofts, and my focus for the day: fresh produce, meat, fish, baked goods and ethnic food markets.

Reyna Foods, a Mexican grocery store, was the first stop. Visitors to Buenos Aires from the USA often remark at the lack of what we state-side think of as typical Latin food: all the spicy flavorful tacos, burritos, rice & beans and the like we’ve become hooked on with the influence of our neighbors south of the border. So coming from a land where spotting a can of refried beans can be a treat, I was happy to find fresh tortillas being made, baskets full of chilis, and an entire aisle dedicated to hot sauces.

Photo Credit: Casey Brown via In the Strip

Packaging freshly made flour tortillas. Photo Credit: Steve Mellon via Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Speaking of the lack of spice in Bs As, imagine my delight at finding Penzey’s Spices, a whole store dedicated to seasonings, spices and all things flavorful, with an entire section just for chili! They had everything imaginable, along with plenty of spices I’ve never even heard of. 

Another highlight was Wholey’s Fish Market, which is a kind of misleading name considering the extent of meats, produce and other options they had available beyond fish. But they did indeed have a Barrio Chino-level selection of seafood with a more moderate stink factor and more impressive prices. The freshness cannot be questioned, as many of these guys from lobsters to striped bass were still swimming around in pool-sized tanks.

Despite the appeal of all the seafood, in my mission to cook up faves that aren’t easy to whip together in Buenos Aires I decided to introduce the fam to the wonder of Chipotle Pork Cheeseburgers. We stopped at Mancini’s Bakery on Penn Avenue to pick up rolls. Mancini’s is pretty legendary, to the point that local diners offer you the option of white, wheat or Mancini’s bread for your sandwiches and toast. And though it took superhuman willpower to resist the urge to buy a few loaves of Pepperoni Bread, I cannot urge you strongly enough to stuff one of these in your face if you have the opportunity.

Mancini’s Pepperoni Roll, photo courtesy of Mancini’s Bakery’s website

Part of the reason I was able to pass up the pepperoni roll was the other treats we had lined up to indulge in. The peanut butter and chocolate kettle corn from The Pittsburgh Popcorn Company on 21st Street is pretty much heaven in a brown paper bag.

Okay, so technically this is the Chocolate Caramel popcorn, but….close enough. Photo courtesy of The Pittsburgh Popcorn Company website.

Though we didn’t stop in, a few other places caught my eye for next time. Strip District Meats had signs promising exotic meats like alligator sirloin, ostrich steaks, and wild boar loin chops that I wouldn’t mind trying my hand at preparing. And the smell pouring out of Peace Love & Little Donuts on Smallman Street was absolutely sinful, though the donuts did not necessarily appear to be so little.

If you live in the Pittsburgh area and have hunted for a hard-to-find ingredient or just love excellent fresh food, I’m probably already preaching to the choir. But for those who may visit the area, I highly recommend setting aside an afternoon to walk The Strip.

THE STRIP DISTRICT – main produce section on Penn Ave. between 16th and 22nd Streets in Pittsburgh, PA

Crab Dip or Bust

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One of my absolute favorite restaurants in Wilmington is Elijah’s. I don’t recall when my sister first introduced me to the place, but it quickly became a must-do during every visit. As I browsed the menu during this latest trip I realized I’ve sampled quite a large portion of it over the years. This time I was mostly focused on the (previously unappreciated) prospect of an abundance of fresh seafood at my fingertips. For a coastal city, Buenos Aires is alarmingly lacking in that department. So I intended to make the most of it in NC.

The restaurant is in a quaint section of Wilmington, right on the Cape Fear River with gorgeous sunset views. A great setting for basking in beautiful weather and enjoying some cocktails. I highly recommend the Bloody Caesar. The French Martini? Ehhh, not so much.

The main reason I always insist on Elijah’s is the crab dip. We simply must get it, every time. In fact, I wouldn’t mind getting one (or two?) just for myself, and certain people have been known to order it as their meal. It’s creamy and crabby and cheesy, with the perfect kick of horseradish.  And it’s the thick, buttery, lightly toasted garlic bread that really takes it to the next level. Me muero.

Being an oyster bar, Elijah’s offers a variety of oyster preparations, and we went simple: a dozen, steamed. My sister introduced me to oysters on crackers with hot sauce, a pretty delicious combination that for me, still doesn’t beat dousing the suckers in melted butter. Soy una gorda.

After enjoying a few of those absolutely delicious Bloody Caesars, it was time for more seafood. I ordered the crab cakes, one pan-fried with corn bread crumbs and “low country seasonings” (whatever THAT means…southern-speak for delicious?), and one deep-fried with Old Bay. I preferred the pan-fried version, disproving my theory that deep-frying makes everything more delicious. The sides were pretty bland, but at least they made me feel better about my rabid indulgence in all things fried.

Sissie got the special, mahi-mahi in a super rich lobster cream sauce over angel hair pasta with shaved parmesan. Oh man, was it goooooood! Too bad she never did learn how to share.

In addition to full bellies, we also left with a ton of leftovers to indulge in later.

I’m sure there are a ton of places in Wilmington that have excellent seafood, but there is something about Elijah’s that’s just…special. Maybe it’s the chill riverside location, or the artifacts on display from the building’s days as a maritime museum, or the memories I’ve made there with some of my faves. Regardless, two slightly greasy thumbs up.

ELIJAH’S – 2 Ann Street in Wilmington, North Carolina

Read the reviews on TripAdvisor.

The Breakfast Buffet: A Great American Pastime

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I’ve been in a food coma for the past few days, and I am not ashamed.

One of the things I’ve been looking forward to the most for my USA East Coast tour – aside from visiting family and friends, of course – is all the glorious foooooood! Starting in North Carolina, because if you haven’t eaten in the South, you just haven’t lived! (And your heart is probably much healthier for it, but…whatever).

Immediately upon arrival, we hit up the Lighthouse Beer Festival with its glorious array of craft brews. So the following morning was the perfect occasion to visit a breakfast buffet. And where better than the legendary Golden Corral.

The breakfast buffet is all about strategy. First, I always survey my options so I know what is available, can prioritize and allot plate space accordingly. Skip this step at your own risk! Around every corner is another tray of deliciousness that you are going to wish you had more room for.

My personal favorite this time around was the Smokey Cheesy Potatoes because holy hell, there are just no words. Sliced red potatoes in a gooey smokey creamy cheese sauce with peppers and onions. Then there was the sausage egg and cheese casserole, the bacon, the corned beef hash, the cheese grits, the hash browns….and that was just on Plate #1.

For Round 2, realizing I had limited vacancy in my belly I zeroed in on the final non-negotiable: creamed chipped beef over a biscuit. On an impulse, I added an apple fritter that I didn’t expect much from. But WOW, that was the perfect sweet ending. It was like a funnel cake with chunks of sweet cinnamon apples. (Wikipedia link added for the benefit of my non-North American readers – ¡qué lástima si no lo has probado!).

Lest you assume I’m a total glutton, below I present you with the offerings in which I did NOT indulge. How it cannot be considered criminal to include a dessert buffet as part of a breakfast buffet is really not for me to question. And what is pictured is actually less than half of what was available. It took a lot of willpower to skip the chocolate cake, carrot cake, chocolate cream pie, strawberry pie AND the chocolate fountain. But, y’know, we all make sacrifices.

GOLDEN CORRAL – with locations all over the USA

God Bless America.

Brown Sugar in Argentina

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Before moving, both Gaspar and I spent a lot of time on sites and forums like BAExpats.org trying to get a feel for what we were getting ourselves into. Sifting through the always cheery tales of inflation or crime, I came across a claim I found hard to accept. There’s no brown sugar. The horror!

But scratch that. I think what forum complainer #598 meant was that there’s no brown sugar like what we’re used to in the USA. Light brown sugar that’s moist (sorry, I hate using that word) with a fine grain is indeed elusive. Instead, your options are azúcar negra (black sugar) or azúcar rubia (blond sugar). Negra seems to be the most commonly available, carried in most of the neighborhood chinos, and rubia is available at most dietéticas. I’ve alternated using each when recipes call for brown sugar, and while neither is an exact replacement, after my various experiments I fully endorse the black stuff.

Azúcar negra has a larger grain than brown sugar estadounidense, and while it’s moist enough to hold together it does tend to be a bit more crumbly. It doesn’t bring about the exact same results, but in most cases I’ve actually found the finished product is improved with a more noticeable molasses flavor and chewier texture. Excellent news for my chocolate chip cookies!

As for the rubia…meh. It seems almost interchangeable with typical white processed sugar to me, just with the brown color of a natural cane sugar. The grains are larger, and there is no moisture whatsoever. Not really impressed.

In any case, I’m happy to report that this particular dark and gloomy warning about life in Buenos Aires has not come to pass. The rest, well….yeah, that stuff’s true. But one can still make chocolate chip cookies, pecan pies and cinnamon streusel toppings. Shwoo! Priorities, people.

Philly Cheesesteaks in Buenos Aires

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Oh, what a beautiful discovery.

We’d been meaning to try El Banco Rojo for a while, the hole-in-the-wall spot offering comidas para llevar from the owners of dive bar favorite La Puerta Roja in San Telmo. I’d heard they had kebabs and falafel, and despite remarking on the regular that we should check it out, we just hadn’t gotten around to it. But when we strolled by one day and spotted the sign touting not only kebabs and falafel, but Philly Cheesesteaks and BBQ wings, it was a done deal.

The menu is rather…eclectic?

We went into it with low expectations. I mean, c’mon. We couldn’t even find decent cheesesteaks when we lived in Miami or Chicago, so how good could it be in Buenos Aires? Hmm, good enough that we’ve been back on a weekly basis for a cheesesteak fix to accompany Gaspar’s viewing of the Eagles doing whatever it is that they do on NFL Game Pass every Sunday. Football in the summer is just a cruel punishment.

Magic in the making

Okay, okay, so the purists may argue that the peppers are a no-no, but I love them. And unlike a lot of Buenos Aires eateries where fussy eaters are out of luck, El Banco Rojo is willing to make exceptions for someone who may just prefer Whiz Wit’ or Without. The key ingredients are all solid. Good bread, good meat and for the love of God they even have a delicious mysterious Whiz-like cheese! It’s no Jim’s Steaks (which, for the record, kicks both Pat’s and Geno’s asses) but what more could two ex-pats ask for?

EL BANCO ROJO – Bolivar 914 in San Telmo

An Ode to the Mercado de San Telmo

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Hunting down groceries in Buenos Aires seemed a little complicated and intimidating at first. While there are large chain supermarkets, they’re not always easily accessible and the freshness/quality levels of certain products can be suspect. But you get used to making several stops on a regular basis. Verdulerías for veggies & fruits, carnicerías for meat, granjerías for poultry, eggs and such, and pescaderías for fish and seafood. Then there are dietéticas for healthy/natural food options like gluten-free products, quinoa, nuts and grains, real vanilla, azucar rubia, etc. And of course the supermercados chinos – locally referred to simply as chinos because (facepalm) they’re usually owned by Asians –  for your basic everyday needs like milk, bread and wine. Yes, basic everyday needs are subjective.

So I’m incredibly grateful for the fact that we live a few blocks from the glorious Mercado de San Telmo, which combines almost all of these options in a raucous space that spans a square block. I don’t think it’s possible for me to overstate my adoration of this place. Most people think of the Mercado as an antiques flea market. Which it is. But it’s so much more.

The selection and quality of the fruits and vegetables here is the absolute best and most reliable I’ve found in the city. Yes, the prices are a bit higher as a result. But you get what you pay for, and if you’re a regular customer you tend to get better deals. Plus, the vendors are super helpful and have infinite patience. My favorite puesto is the one right next to the butcher, because they always give me candy with my change. Yes, I’m easily won over, but they also have fair prices and give receipts so you can keep track of inflation for yourself. If someone doesn’t have an item you’re looking for, chances are you can find it at a nearby stall, so don’t hesitate to shop around. Check out my list of fruits and vegetables in castellano Rioplatense if you find yourself at a loss for words.

The Mercado’s also the best spot I’ve found in San Telmo for chicken, meats and eggs. There are two granjerías that sell a variety of eggs along with whole chickens and your standard breasts, wings, thighs and legs. They also have trocitos de pollo, which I find are excellent for dishes like paella that require small flavorful pieces of dark meat and save you all the bone-removing awkwardness. Plus, these puestos can fill orders for rabbit, duck and turkey.

The main butcher stalls are a sight to behold. On any given day there will be whole pigs hanging out (literally), alongside various hooves, tongues, piles of intestines, and yes, even brains. I gape, briefly consider how I would prepare such a thing, and end up ordering pork chops. But truly, any meat product you can imagine, they’ve got it. From bacon and sausages to filet mignon to liver and innards, just ask and ye shall receive. The carniceros are well-versed in their trade, a blessing for someone who both sucks at math and can’t always articulate exactly what she’s looking for. “Cómo vas a prepararlo? Para cuántas personas? Bueno, sugiero un medio kilo de entraña.” I may not be sure if I’m getting skirt steak or entrails, but it’s part of the adventure.

For those of us who fancy a huge selection of cheeses, cured meats and other picada-type foods, there’s a puesto for that. Again, knowing your measurements is key. But I couldn’t complain about finding myself with a half-kilo of manchego to polish off.

And for a wide variety of spices and grains, there’s a puesto tucked next to one of the entrances on Humberto Primo with stacks of jars full of….everything. Dried herbs and spices, varieties of sugars, flours, nuts, grains, vanilla beans, etc.

If you live in San Telmo and are doing your shopping at Carrefour or Disco, get thee to the Mercado. Even if you’re not from the neighborhood, it’s worth the trip. Avoid Sundays for the best prices and wait times.

MERCADO DE SAN TELMO – between Defensa & Bolivar, and Carlos Calvo & Humberto Primo